The ancient Etruscan city of Tarquinia

To escape the maddening crowds of the Eternal city head for a day trip to the small city of Tarquinia. 

Only an hour northwest of Rome, Tarquinia remains relatively unknown to foreign tourists who are in a rush to tick off their list all the obvious Italian sites. Steeped in history Tarquinia offers architectural wealth that spans many centuries. 

Tarquinia

The city’s main attraction is the 3,000-year-old Etruscan Monterozzi Necropolis, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although only around 20 tombs out of six thousand are open to visitors, it is more than enough to appreciate the beauty and historical significance of this archaeological site, admire exquisite frescoes and learn about this mysterious civilization. 

Frescoes in the Etruscan Necropolis

Stroll around Tarquinia’s old centre to take in the relaxed atmosphere and explore numerous churches, medieval towers, fort and ancient palaces. The splendid Renaissance Palazzo Vitelleschi houses the Tarquinia National Museum with a large collection of objects discovered in the necropolis that include impressive stone sarcophagi, delicate gold jewelry and pottery. There is also the Tarquinia Ceramic Museum (Museo della Ceramica d'Uso a Corneto) filled with artefacts from medieval and Renaissance periods as well as a fascinating reconstruction of a 500-year-old kitchen.

Tarquinia

Check out the stunning 12th-century Church of Santa Maria di Castello, the main cathedral with splendid frescoes, the small but charming Church of San Martino, the Romanesque style Communal Palace and the Renaissance Palazzo dei Priori. To take a breath from sightseeing head to the beach in Lido di Tarquinia or one of many great local restaurants. The area around the city is renowned for its excellent olive oil and wine. The Ambaradam restaurant serves (Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 14) delicious fresh seafood dishes. In the charming La Capanna del Buttero (Via della Tuscia, 19) try homemade pasta with wild mushrooms or juicy grilled meat. 

Photos via Flickr by: Craig Stanfill, Luca Cerabona, Raymond Bucko.

the Trevi Fountain reopens after restoration

After 17 months of reconstruction the Italy’s most famous fountain is flowing again, more beautiful than ever.

The makeover cost around €2.2 million and was funded by the luxury fashion house Fendi, which stepped in to help the city of Rome after the experts realized that the fountain was deteriorating rapidly and needed a serious intervention. In exchange, Fendi will affix a branded sign at the tourist site for four years. The fashion house will continue financing restorations across the city with its wonderful “Fendi for Fountains” project.

Restoration of the Fountain

The Trevi Fountain is famous not only for its Baroque splendour but also for a delightful tradition: if you want to return to Rome, you have to toss a coin over your left shoulder into the water. Eager tourists throw coins worth up to 3,000 euros a day, which go to local charities. To keep the tradition going a small basin was made, so coins can be thrown there rather than in the main water reservoir. 

Pope Clement XII commissioned the construction of the iconic fountain in 1730 to revamp an ancient Roman aqueduct that served the city for over 400 years. It took more than 30 years to complete but the splendour of the Trevi Fountain was certainly worth the wait. 

Trevi Fountain

The Trevi Fountain is 26 metres high (85.28 feet) and 49 metres large (160.72 feet). 80.000 cubic meter of water flow through it every day. The fountain’s façade is made of travertine stone and the statues are carved from chunks of precious Carrara marble. In the centre stands the statue of Ocean who is carried on a chariot by two horses led by Tritons. On the left is the statue of Abundance with the horn of plenty, above which is relief of Agrippa, a Roman general and statesman who supervised building of the aqueduct. On the right side of the fountain there is a statue representing Health. 

The fountain is richly decorated with beautifully carved floral elements: wild fig and ivy branches, capper plants, artichokes and grapes. 

Photos via Flickr by: Larry Miller, Ian Southwell.

Exploring Campo de’ Fiori

Campo de’ Fiori is one of the prettiest and liveliest squares in Rome where you can easily spend several hours exploring the architectural and gastronomic treasures.

The first thing that springs to mind at the mention of Campo de’ Fiori is the famous daily food open-air market. Although, a few stalls are unashamedly tourist-touting, many fruit and vegetable vendors sell excellent seasonal produce. The solemn statue of Giordano Bruno, who was burned at the stake in the piazza in 1600, looks from above on the buzzing crowd. 

Campo de' Fiori

Check out the busy the Campo de’ Fiori bakery that is popular with tourists and locals alike. Every day it bakes fresh crunchy breads, delicious pizzas and cookies. Another gastronomic delight not to be missed is the Norcineria Viola that has been selling traditional charcuterie products since the 19^th century. 

A few steps from the square is Palazzo della Cancelleria, an elegant Renaissance palace built by the famous Donato Bramante for a cardinal. Part of the building houses a permanent exhibition of fascinating machines built to Leonardo Da Vinci’s descriptions. 

Palazzo della Cancelleria

Another small museum that is worth visiting is the Museo di Scultura Antica with an excellent collection of  Egyptian, Roman and Phoenician art, and Greek sculptures that were donated to the city of Rome by a private collector, Giovanni Barracco. 

To escape the noise and blazing sun of the Italian capital step inside the stunning churches located in the area: Sant'Andrea della Valle, Basilica di San Lorenzo in Damaso and the tiny 14^th century Santa Barbara dei Librari. 

Galleria Spada

A short stroll from Campo de’ Fiori you will find the Galleria Spada which houses a beautiful collection of 16th and 17th century painting including works by Tiziano, Caravaggio, Rubens, Albrecht Dürer. The building is also famous for its optical illusion gallery where Francesco Borromini created the so-called “forced perspective”: what looks like a life-size sculpture at the end of a long row of columns is only 60 cm high.

Photos via Flickr by: Lauren Jong, David Macchi, Franco Torcellan.

The Underground Eternal City

You have spent days crisscrossing Rome’s streets, admiring its ostentatious palaces, lavish basilicas, grand squares, dramatic ruins and spectacular monuments and you think you have seen most of the Eternal City. Think again, because there a whole world hidden BENEATH modern Rome. Have you seen any of it?

Capuchin Crypt

The 17 ^th century Church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappucini conceals a Capuchin Crypt in its basement. Walking along the glitzy Via Veneto the last thing you expect to find there is a grim ancient ossuary decorated with disassembled 3700 skeletons. Four small chapels contain bones that are arranged in arches, rosettes, stalked along the walls with a few skeletons dressed in dusty Capucin robes. A sign in the crypt reminds visitors about their mortality: "What you are now we used to be; what we are now you will be..."

Basilica di San Clemente

Another site that offer a glance at Rome's subterranean structures lies underneath the 12^th century Basilica di San Clemente. Follow down the staircase and you will arrive to a hall decorated with faded frescoes, which is the original, 4th century basilica, on of Rome’s first. Below is another layer of Roman history, reachable via a narrow stair. They are an ancient Roman house and temple built in the 1st century. Deeper down there is another level with rooms remaining from a public building destroyed the Great Fire in the year 64 AD. There you can still hear the water flowing in pipes laid by ancient Romans. 

Case Romane al Celio

Basilica of Ss. Giovanni e Paolo hides one of Rome's best preserved subterranean structures, Case Romane al Celio, that were discovered in the 19th century. The complex includes houses, a shop and a section of a road.  Some of the twenty rooms are decorated with beautiful frescoes dating from the 3rd to the 12th century. 

Photos via Flickr by: John Mosbaugh, Carole Waller, Franco Torcellan.

Castel Gandolfo

Perched above lake Albano, 20 miles south of Rome, is a small town of Castel Gandolfo. A favourite retreat of the rich and powerful in the days of Roman Empire, Castel Gandolfo later became the papal summer residence. The views from the town over the lake and surrounding countryside inspired many artists who visited the area on the Grand Tour in the XVIII century.

Castel Gandolfo

Although Pope Francis, a fervent advocate of frugal living, has yet to spend a night in the luxurious abode, many pontiffs over centuries came to the residence to take a break in the Alban Hills from the hectic life in Rome. The Pontifical Villas of Castel Gandolfo comprise about 135 acres, more than half of which make up a stunning formal garden, Giardino del Belvedere, that Pope Francis opened to the public last year. Visitors can admire manicured lawns, ornamental flowerbeds, stroll in a park under shady holm oaks and explore the glorious first-century AD ruins of Emperor Domitian’s country residence. 

Papal Palace

The pretty town is clustered around the Papal Palace with some spectacular views over Lake Albano. On the main square, Piazza della Libertà, stands the Church of San Tommaso di Villanova, designed by Bernini. There are many splendid palaces built by noble families in the past, however, the best way to enjoy Castel Gandolfo is to get lost in its picturesque alleyways and absorb its small-town atmosphere. And, naturally, sample excellent local food! The area of Castelli Romani is renowned for it wine, roasted pork meat called “porchetta”, strawberries and peaches. Book a table on the panoramic terrace at the Ristorante Bucci to enjoy lake view while sampling delicious local dishes. Follow in steps of such Hollywood celebrities as Robert De Niro, Nicolas Cage, Catherine Zeta Jones and head to Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli for a romantic meal on their beautiful terrace or wisteria-scented garden. The restaurant is famous not only for their quality food but also for recently restored ancient wine cellars where themed dinners are often hosted. 

Photos via Flickr by: Giampaolo Macorig, Allan Doyle.

Visit Charming Bevagna

In the sleepy town of Bevanga in the region of Umbria time runs slower. The well-preserved medieval walls seem to shield the town from the hustle and bustle of the 21^st century outside their perimeter. Originally Etruscan, Bevagna became part of the Roman Empire in 80-90 BC and served as an important stop on Via Flaminia, one of the main roads to the Eternal City.

Ruins remaining from the glorious days of the ancient Romans can be found throughout the town: a Roman Temple, Theatre, which could hold up to 10,000 spectators and the Baths with beautiful black and white floor mosaics dating back to the 2nd century AC and depicting sea monsters, a lobster and octopus.

Bevagna

While walking in the historic centre of Bevagna you can admire stunning views over the lush countryside outside the medieval walls. The central medieval square, Piazza Silvestri, has changed little over centuries. The 13th century Palazzo dei Consoli, decorated with slabs of travertine stone and beautiful mullioned windows was transformed into a small theatre in the 19th century. Check out the two lovely Romanesque 12th century churches facing each other: San Michele Arcangelo and San Silvestro.

The Monastery of Santa Margherita has spectacular 16^th century frescoes and Scala Santa, which, just like the one in Rome, many pilgrims climb on their knees to obtain a plenary indulgence.

Bevagna  - Mercato delle Gaite

If you visit Bevagna in the last ten days of June you will be able to see the Mercato delle Gaite, a historic Medieval life re-enactment when residents wear period costumes and local artisans demonstrate ancient crafts.

Do not miss a chance to taste delicious local dishes such as a snail stew with tomatoes and herbs (lumache in umido), gnocchi with local wine Sagrantino, crostini with chicken liver and spleen and hard tozzetti cookies dipped in Vin Santo wine.

Photos via Flickr by: Sergio Conti, Luca Etrusco

Visit of Bevagna

In the sleepy town of Bevanga, only two hours driving from Rome, in the region of Umbria time runs slower. The well-preserved medieval walls seem to shield the town from the hustle and bustle of the 21^st century outside their perimeter. Originally Etruscan, Bevagna became part of the Roman Empire in 80-90 BC and served as an important stop on Via Flaminia, one of the main roads to the Eternal City.

Ruins remaining from the glorious days of the ancient Romans can be found throughout the town: a Roman Temple, Theatre, which could hold up to 10,000 spectators and the Baths with beautiful black and white floor mosaics dating back to the 2nd century AC and depicting sea monsters, a lobster and octopus.

Bevagna

While walking in the historic centre of Bevagna you can admire stunning views over the lush countryside outside the medieval walls. The central medieval square, Piazza Silvestri, has changed little over centuries. The 13th century Palazzo dei Consoli, decorated with slabs of travertine stone and beautiful mullioned windows was transformed into a small theatre in the 19th century. Check out the two lovely Romanesque 12th century churches facing each other: San Michele Arcangelo and San Silvestro.

The Monastery of Santa Margherita has spectacular 16^th century frescoes and Scala Santa, which, just like the one in Rome, many pilgrims climb on their knees to obtain a plenary indulgence.

Mercato delle Gaite

If you visit Bevagna in the last ten days of June you will be able to see the Mercato delle Gaite, a historic Medieval life re-enactment when residents wear period costumes and local artisans demonstrate ancient crafts.

Do not miss a chance to taste delicious local dishes such as a snail stew with tomatoes and herbs (lumache in umido), gnocchi with local wine Sagrantino, crostini with chicken liver and spleen and hard tozzetti cookies dipped in Vin Santo wine.

Photos via Flickr by: Sergio Conti, Luca Etrusco

Visit of Tivoli

Tivoli is a historic hill town a short drive east of the Italian capital and one of the most popular destinations for day trips from Rome.

Since ancient times Rome’s rich and powerful had summer residences in Tivoli as the climate here is slightly cooler. Nowadays, the town has several historic villas with gardens that are open to the public, ancient temples and excellent restaurants. The late Renaissance Villad'Este is one of the main attractions built in the 1550s for Cardinal Ippolito d'Este when he became Tivoli’s governor.

Tivoli - Villa d'Este

The palace has many frescoed rooms and a beautiful courtyard; however, it is the gardens astound everyone. Stretching over several acres, the terraced garden boasts over five hundred fountains, pools and cascades combined with grottoes, statues and spectacular views over the Roman countryside. Grand, large and small fountains of every shape are dazzling, so take your time to admire their elaborate details. The intricate Fontana dell'Organo has a water-powered organ with water cascading into large pools; the fountain Rometta ("the little Rome") is a miniature reproduction of the Eternal City; the Fontana dell'Ovato  is made in such a way that you can walk behind the jets of water.

Tivoli - Villa d'Este - Fontana dell'Orologio

Another attraction in Tivoli is the Hadrians Villa, spectacular ruins of the Roman Emperor Hadrian's impressive summer residence. Although it had been savaged, looted and left to decay for many centuries, its splendour and grandeur are still undeniable. Sprawling over a staggering 250 acres, the Villa had lakes, fountains, libraries, baths, temples and gardens.

Tivoli - Villa Adriana

The complex was built in the 2nd century AD by the well-travelled Emperor Hadrian, who wanted to reproduce the best architecture and sculptures that he had seen in Greece, Egypt and other countries. You will need a few hours to explore and wander through the site without rush. The small model near the entrance gives an idea what the residence looked like in Hadrian's days with palaces, several baths, state rooms, theatre, temples, libraries, and living quarters for the emperor's court and slaves. A significant part of the estate has not been yet excavated but you can see beautiful mosaics, fountains, colonnades, and statues.

Photos via Flickr: Paula Funnell, Filip Maljković, Giampaolo Macorig.

Visit of Villa Lante

The small charming town of Bagnaia, just over an hour drive from Rome, is famous for majestic 16^th century Villa Lante. The name is somewhat misleading as there is no grand villa to speak of but it is the garden, one of Italy's finest Renaissance gardens, that attracts visitors.

The rich and powerful created these pleasure grounds over a period of time as the property came with the title of Bishop of Viterbo. At the beginning of the 16^th century, Cardinal Raffaele Riario, famous for inviting Michelangelo to Rome, built a wall to enclose 22 hectares of land putting a foundation of what later became Villa Lante. Cardinal De Gambara, who had a penchant for outdoor living and al fresco dining, commissioned the main works.

Styled as a formal Italian garden, Villa Lante has many spectacular water features: the best hydraulics experts oversaw the construction of lavish fountains, grottoes and canals. Fontana dei Mori, Fontana dei Lumini, Pegasus Fountain, Fountain of the Deluge have tiered basins, elegant cascades and jets of water, some of them controlled via remote switches to amuse the guests with the so-called “theatre of the water” that were de rigueur during Renaissance. On a hot summer day, it is wonderful to walk through the garden’s terraces enjoying the views, listening to the water spurting, trickling and streaming over the sculptures of river gods and mythical creatures.

The two small twin buildings, the Gambara Casino and Montalto Casino, on each side of the garden have lovely frescoes and period furnishings. The noble Lante della Rovere family owned the Villa for three centuries until 1933. Although it remains a private property today it is open to public.

A visit to the Villa Lante combined with a stroll around the historic town of Bagnaia makes for a great day trip, away from the noise and heat of Rome.

Photos via Flickr by: Paolo Alfieri, Roberto Ferrari, Pavlo Boyko.